Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Paraiba Tourmaline; The Controversy Goes on and on…:



GIA Weighs In:

The Spring 2008 issue of GIA's Gems & Gemology features a full length article on Mozambique cuprian tourmaline. Under the heading “Nomenclature Issues” the authors, there are eight of them, four work for GIA, make the point that the now infamous Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee (LMHC) has made it optional for its member to use the term Paraiba as either a variety designation or a trade name. The members of LMHC include AGTA, CISGEM, GAAJ, GIA, Gubelin and SSEF. Most members, they note, have opted to use Paraiba as a trade name. (Photo: above left: The real thing, 0.88 carat Paraiba Tourmaline from Paraiba, R. W. Wise collection)

A new wrinkle has been added. According to LMHC Information Sheet no. 6, Paraíba Tourmaline is defined as “a blue electric blue, neon blue, violet blue) or green elbaite tourmaline of medium to high saturation. That the gems have the proper chemistry, be copper and magnesium bearing is not sufficient. Violet, reddish-purple and yellowish green gems are excluded by definition and, say the authors, “The saturation necessary for blue-to-green Cu (Copper) bearing tourmaline to be considered ‘Paraiba’ does not have widespread agreement.” (Photo: above right: Exceptionally fine pair of Mozambique cuprian "Paraiba" tourmaline)

This definition offers up all sorts of interesting possibilities in the ongoing certificate game. One lab may decide that a given stone has sufficient levels of saturation and is of the proper hue to be called Paraíba while another lab might simply call it “Cu- and Mn-bearing.” This creates a situation similar to the LMHA decision regarding pinkish-orangy sapphires. Depending upon saturation, the lab may decide the stone is or is not padparadscha. For years now labs have been making a distinction between emerald and green beryl on the basis of saturation. This means that getting a Paraiba certificate on may be something of a crap shoot.

Reductio ad absurdum:

The decision to define the hue/tone of Paraiba tourmaline might have another embarrassing if unintended consequence. Gems from the original Paraíba mine, some of which, particularly the unheated material, was definitely in the violet and reddish purple hues described above, will no longer fit the definition of Paraiba tourmaline while stones of the appropriate hues from Mozambique and Nigeria will. Oh what a tangled web we weave!

Not Quite Like Padparadascha:

In a recent article The Paraiba Predicament posted on the Colored Stone website www.colored-stone.com Editor in Chief David Federman draws a comparison between the current tourmaline terminology issue and a similar debate over the use of the term Padparadscha sapphire.

In the 1980s a large strike of fancy colored sapphire was found in the gem gravels of the Umba River in Tanzania. These included a portion of reddish-orangey-pink-brownish-red stones that were marketed as African Padparadascha. (Photo: left: 3.96 carat Natural Sri Lankan padparadscha sapphire, R. W. Wise, Collection) Many in the trade found this objectionable. In the 1983 article published in Gems & Gemology, legendary gemologist Robert Crowningshield defused the controversy by defining the color of padparadascha. This is correct. However, Federman goes on to say:

“Although "padparadscha" referred to color rather than place, it was always assumed that this corundum had one origin only: Sri Lanka. So use of the term "padparadscha" implied a single source.”

Federman’s analogy breaks down on a question of fact. Crowningshield did exclude Umba River stones from the definition not because they were from Africa but because, as he states in the referenced article, these gems were a brownish orange to deep orangy-red did not, therefore, fit the definition of padparadscha. Crowningshield did not exclude stones simply because they were not of Sri Lankan origin. The term padparadscha "implied" a single source only because, at that time there was but one source.

Since that article was published a number of natural stones from Vietnam and East Africa from newer sources have entered the market. These gems fit Crowningshield’s definition and qualify for the designation padparadscha despite lacking the traditional geographic lineage. Padparadscha as defined by Crowningshield as “light to medium tones of pinkish orange to orange-pink hue.” This is the same definition that I use in my book, Secrets Of The Gem Trade, and it has become universally accepted in the trade.

In his seminal Ruby & Sapphire, Richard Hughes appears to draw the same conclusion as Federman but goes on to say that “The best ‘padparadscha’ this author has seen was unearthed in Vietnam, not Sri Lanka.” He goes on to say that the best way to resolve the controversy would be to define the color range (p.398). Ironically, he suggests that a “set of printed color references” (ibid.). Two years ago, the LMHC came up with just such a set of color references which has generated its own set of problems. (see GemWise: Boldly Going...)

Well the best padparadscha this author has seen was found near Songea, Tanzania and who knows where the next one will come from. Actually a few stones from the old Umba River source also fit Crowningshield’s definition.

Just Do The Right Thing:

The fact is that none of the issues and absurdities associated with the current nomenclature would be issues at all if CIBJO and the labs had done it right in the first place. For the past fifty years every new gem that has come on the market has been named according to a simple convention. Though I am no fan of the ite word it has worked. Tanzanite, tsavorite, spessartite have done the job. With the new copper bearing Mozambique tourmaline a slight change is required. Since a mineral named cuprite already exists, cuprian as in cuprian elbaite tourmaline is the proper name.

We don't need lab gemologists to get into aesthetics or connoisseurship, areas for which they have not been trained. We don't need to exclude copper bearing stones from any source. We don't need another scandal. We don't need to confuse consumers. Try to explain the whole Pariaba thing and you will confuse buyers and confusing people is not a good way to market gemstones. We do need to knock of the BS.

Some say its too late, its a done deal, to that I say, nonsense! We all know that the naming of this gemstone is the result of a cynical and very well orchestrated attempt on the part of a group of dealers to hijack and build a marketing campaign on the good name of a very rare gemstone and we need to do it right.








Learn the truth about how tourmaline, padparadscha sapphire and other fine gems are graded and priced!

Follow me on gem buying adventures in the pearl farms of Tahiti. Visit the gem fields of Australia and Brazil. 120 carefully selected photographs showing examples of the highest quality gems to educate the eye, including the Rockefeller Sapphire and many more of the world's most famous gems. Consider my book: Secrets Of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur's Guide To Precious Gemstones.

“Wise is a renowned author... He’s
done a marvelous job of this first book, monumental work, a tour de force...My recommendation: Buy this book”.

Charles Lewton-Brain, Orchid

whether you like to know what the best colour is in Tanzanite, or how to grade a Diamond, you will find it in this book. No other book I read before dealt with this topic is such detail as Richard Wise's masterpiece."

A. Van Acker, FGA
Amazon June 2005

"Secrets Of The Gem Trade: The Connoisseurs Guide To Precious Gemstones by Richard W. Wise is an impressive new reference for dedicated dealers and collectors of gems, gemstones, and ... pearls. Introducing and descriptively exploring each and every gem covered in the easy-to-use reference, Secrets Of The Gem Trade contains an illustrated summary of each stone inclusive of its history and general information, hue and tone, saturation, which may be noticed as the finest, an understanding of the particular gems rarity, and the caution for synthetics and how to depict them, however depending upon the stone there may be description of clarity, color fading, multi-color effect, etc. Secrets Of The Gem Trade is very highly recommended to anyone interested in gemology as a superbly organized, authoritative, comprehensive, and easy-to-follow reference."

Midwest Book Review
April 2006

Only $35.95. Read a couple of chapters online: www.secretsofthegemtrade.com.

Buy it on Amazon: www.amazon.com


Thursday, April 10, 2008

The Jewelry Repair Game

“I never do anything with my hands” and other myths of the jewelry repair game.

by Richard W. Wise, G.G.

©2008

If one more client comes in and tells me her ring should not need repair because “I never do anything with my hands”, I think I am going to spit-up. You know, just after you mention a price to do the repair she bristles like a porcupine then exclaims: “I don’t understand it! Why did it break? I always take the ring off before I do dishes.”

The suppressed premise here is that jewelry is or should be indestructible. Apparently at least 20% of the American public believes this to be true. Jewelry should not break and if it does it must be defective and therefore the fault of the jeweler.

I guess I just don’t get it! If you buy a new car, drive it off the lot and run into a light pole, the dealer is going to charge you to remove the dent. Most expensive items we buy come with a 90 day to 1 year limited warranty. Yet some consumers seem to expect that a piece of jewelry should come with an all risk warranty. Name me another consumer item that comes with the expectation of free maintenance for life?

I have had clients approach me as much as a decade after a piece was made. Case in point; Mrs. D, an active sportswoman (tennis, skiing, golf) in her middle years: we had made her a handmade 18k yellow gold solitaire engagement ring with a 5 carat blue sapphire sitting right on top of it. The ring had been worn all day, every day for a dozen years and the prongs were quite worn and the setting required a rebuild. The client didn’t understand. How could this be? Why should she pay to have the work done? After all, we had made the ring. Only after a half hour of explanation did she calm down and agree to have the work done and pay for it.

Jewelry, like all material things, is subject to wear and tear and requires occasional maintenance. Gold is a beautiful material but it is soft. Platinum is more durable but it too will wear over time. The fact is that in our post-industrial world almost anything, doorknobs, washing machines, butter knives, golf clubs, can scratch, dent or otherwise damage precious materials. Gemstones, even diamond, the hardest substance on earth, can be chipped and broken.

Diamonds or how you can break the hardest substance on earth:

I recall selling a high quality carat size princess cut diamond to a client. Six months later she returned. The diamond was broken in half and she was very upset; in her mind the diamond must have been defective. “I hit it hard but I didn’t think it could break.” I tried to explain the difference between hardness and toughness and pointed out that even diamond can break. The client looked at me like I had three heads. Many people, even jewelers, don’t understand the difference between hardness and toughness. Hardness is simply a measure of scratch-ability. Diamond, the hardest substance, is 10 on the Mohs hardness scale meaning that it cannot be scratched by any other substance but it can still break. Ruby/Sapphire, is rated 9 and is the second hardest substance; it will not scratch a diamond but it is tougher and more resistant to breakage. A crisis was averted when the client’s insurance company replaced the diamond with barely a murmur.

Some jewelry items are damaged more easily than others. Rings are number one followed by bracelets, earrings and pendants. Fine handmade pieces may be more susceptible to certain kinds of damage due to the fact that they are joined together with solder rather than being cast in one piece. After all, a Maserati requires more tune-ups than a Ford. Conversely, some handmade pieces are actually tougher due to hand forging and temper. One piece castings can cause real problems. Remember that bargain priced ruby ring that you bought in India? Remember how it began losing stones, like rain falling from the sky, as soon as you cleared customs?


Buying Antique Jewelry, the Inheritance can be taxing:


When purchasing antique or vintage jewelry bear in mind that this is a piece of jewelry that has been around for awhile. Antique jewelry is normally sold as is! You are buying a piece of history which means you are inheriting any and all problems that come with it. You can hardly expect the dealer to be responsible for re-doing a wonky repair that comes apart 50 years later.

Choose the right materials for the job:

Today we have a lot of choices and some precious materials are more durable than others. Pure gold is 2.5-3.0 on Moh’s scale of hardness, platinum is 4-4.5.0. So if you want that wedding ring to last for fifty years, platinum is your best choice.

Common dust is composed mainly of quartz which rates 7.0 on the scale. Leaving aside toughness, gemstones below this level of hardness are a poor choice for everyday wear because simple cleaning will cause minute scratching that will gradually become visible. Think about that opal that just seems to stay foggy no matter how often you rub it.

The Victorian age ended a century ago. Most of us do not wear white gloves or attend afternoon tea parties and we cannot afford a footman to open our doors or a maid to do our dishes and we use our hands all day, every day. We wear our jewelry and yes that jewelry is subject to wear and tear and may perhaps lose a stone or even break. If you are looking for an all risk warranty against all the vicissitudes of modern life don’t look to your jeweler, I suggest you contact your spiritual advisor or perhaps, more to the point, your insurance agent.


Please don't send me your repairs....






Learn the truth about how spinel and other fine gems are graded and priced!

Follow me on gem buying adventures in the pearl farms of Tahiti. Visit the gem fields of Australia and Brazil. 120 carefully selected photographs showing examples of the highest quality gems to educate the eye, including the Rockefeller Sapphire and many more of the world's most famous gems. Consider my book: Secrets Of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur's Guide To Precious Gemstones.

“Wise is a renowned author... He’s
done a marvelous job of this first book, monumental work, a tour de force...My recommendation: Buy this book”.

Charles Lewton-Brain, Orchid

whether you like to know what the best colour is in Tanzanite, or how to grade a Diamond, you will find it in this book. No other book I read before dealt with this topic is such detail as Richard Wise's masterpiece."

A. Van Acker, FGA
Amazon June 2005

"Secrets Of The Gem Trade: The Connoisseurs Guide To Precious Gemstones by Richard W. Wise is an impressive new reference for dedicated dealers and collectors of gems, gemstones, and ... pearls. Introducing and descriptively exploring each and every gem covered in the easy-to-use reference, Secrets Of The Gem Trade contains an illustrated summary of each stone inclusive of its history and general information, hue and tone, saturation, which may be noticed as the finest, an understanding of the particular gems rarity, and the caution for synthetics and how to depict them, however depending upon the stone there may be description of clarity, color fading, multi-color effect, etc. Secrets Of The Gem Trade is very highly recommended to anyone interested in gemology as a superbly organized, authoritative, comprehensive, and easy-to-follow reference."

Midwest Book Review
April 2006

Only $35.95. Read a couple of chapters online: www.secretsofthegemtrade.com.

Buy it on Amazon: www.amazon.com